Help for brittle nails

Written by: De Glakas

Help for brittle and peeling nails:

First thing is finding out what is causing this disorder and what can be some of the triggers. For instance, cold weather, diet, medication or it is inherited.

Horsetail herb, in pill or tea form, is said to have antioxidant effects. The silica derived from its herb is important for maintaining body tissue.

Nails are made of protein keratin so to have strong nails, include protein into your diet. Suggest eating grass-feed beef, free-range poultry, wild-caught fish, and plant based (not soy) protein powder. Also, taking in the required amount of fruits or vegetable or taking “the next best thing” juice.

Add Vitamin E orally, this supplement restores moisture and strength.

Topical application of cuticle oil, moisturizers, vitamin E or OPI Nail Envy Polish can help keep the nail plate moist. Keep your nails short. The longer the free edge, the older the nail plate cells and more likely to be brittle.

Protect your hands and nails by wearing gloves, in the cold or while clean (wet or dry).

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Post-Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation: What you need to know

Post-Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation is the noticeable discoloration of the skin that develops after an inflammatory wound. This condition most frequently effects skin tones that fall between 3 and 6 on the Fitzpatrick scale. Acne is the most commonly associated skin condition with PIH, as acne scars can cause the characteristic skin discoloration. However, skin injuries cause by viral exanthems, allergic reactions such as those from contact dermatitis or insect bites.

 So, how does this happen? Why would the skin over produce melanin? As every esthetician should know, the more melanin a person had, the darker their skin will be. When the cells that contain melanin are damaged or over stimulated, the cells responds by over producing melanin. When melanin is produced in the upper layers of the skin (epidermis), a brownish color develops. When melanin is produced in the lower dermis layers of the skin, a blue-ish color develops.
 How do you treat it? PIH can be treated with a number of skin brightening products that contain the key ingredient Hydroquinone. However, to maintain a youthful glow, we recommend our Brighten Me by Elaine Sterling Skincare. This product is non-Hydroquinone, but uses powerful botanicals to help prevent hyperpigmentation and enhance the overall tone of the skin. There are also a variety of clinical treatments to help treat PIH. PIH will normally heal on its own, but these treatments can help speed up the healing process. Glycolic peels are renowned for their ability to treat PIH and it greatly heals collagen and can help repair damaged melanin producing cells. Microdermsare also a less intense option that help improve new skin turnover rates. 
 Here is a list of other helpful active ingredients with an important note about sunscreen: Many of these ingredients can increase the sensitivity of the skin and should always be used in conjunction with a powerful sunscreen. 
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Ascorbyl Phosphate Magnesium & Ascorbyl Phosphate Sodium

Screen Shot 2015-09-16 at 10.22.00 PM

What is it?  Ascorbyl Magnesium Phosphate (L-Ascorbic acid mono-dihydrogen phosphate magnesium salt) and Ascorbyl Phosphate Sodium are stable forms of Vitamin C, an important antioxidant. Vitamin C is used by cells to supply necessary electrons to enzymatic and non-enzymatic reactions. Forms of Vitamin C provide electrons to oxidizing agents (free radicals) that would otherwise steal valence electrons from surrounding, creating a chain reaction that could damage cell organelles and vital cell processes. 
 Why use it? APM and APS do not readily dissolve in water, so it is more stable and can be more effective when used in a skincare product. AMP also requires a lower percentage than Ascorbic acid in order to be effective, as shown by the graph below. After 2 and 6 hours, the amount of available ascorbyl in the skin was elevated after administration of APS. 
Screen Shot 2015-09-16 at 10.24.28 PM
This aspect of this ingredient makes it the perfect Vitamin C alternative for those with sensitive skin. 
APS and APM help reduce sun damage. When skin was treated 20 mM APS and exposed to UV radiation, lipid peroxidation (caused by UV radiation), the skin showed no signs of raditation after 2 hours. 
Screen Shot 2015-09-16 at 10.16.14 PM
 What products contain it? The following Elaine Sterling Skincare products contain Ascorbyl Magnesium Phosphate. 

Power Rescue 

Information cited from:

Showa Denko Europe GmbH Konrad-Z
Konrad-Zuse-Platz 4
D-81829 Munich, Germany


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5 Makeup tips to boost your look

Enhance your looks and boost your confidence with these makeup tips and tricks.

  1. Adding bronzer above blush creates 3d dimension for the cheeks.
    2. Never pump mascara! Twirl inside tube to prevent mascara from drying.
    3. Clean brushes using antibacterial soap with water.
    4. For small eyes add a light shadow in the inner corner to open the eyes.
    5. For thin lips, lightly use a lip pencil outside the lip line, and then fill in lip with lipstick to make the lips appearance fuller.

Written by our own Whittley Parks

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What makes a good cleanser

Getting a good cleanser that is the right choice for your skin can work wonders. Half of the time, when we conduct a skin analysis under the woods lamp the primary suggestion is to get a good cleanser, starting there can provide a great foundation for correcting problem skin. So what is a good cleanser? Is there a difference between a $100 department store cleanser and the $5 grocery store cleanser? To answer the first question, we have to think about what is right for a client’s specific skin. Do they have oily, dry, or combination skin? Do they have acne or comedones? If so, is this caused by bacteria, inflammation, or clogged pores? These are some of the questions that we ask when determining what kind of cleanser we would recommend. 
To finish answering what makes a good cleanser, we shift our focus to the next question. The first type of cleanser to avoid is bar soap. Bar soap strips your face, and it has trouble compensating for the pH imbalance after cleansing. Many of the cheaper cleansers also have ingredients that strip your face, and irritating fragrances, coloring, and miscellaneous fillers. Beyond the cheaper cleansers, figuring out what works for you is more determined by brand identity. If natural or organic is important to you, seek out a brand that honors those values. Speaking as an ESI rep, in our skincare line, we promote effective skincare products by the use of powerful and revolutionary active ingredients, with no added fragrances or irritants. 
So which cleanser is right for you. Using our own skincare line, here is a list of our cleansers and the skin types with which they work the best.
 Clarifying skin wash- oily, acneic skin Use this cleanser if you suffer from an oily complexion. Until I realized that I had combination skin, I used this cleanser. It worked great on my t-zone, but dried out my cheeks. I switched cleansers with a great outcome, but still use it when I have a sweaty workout and a lot of excess oil. 
 Daily gentle- combination, normal, aging This is a great all purpose cleanser. This is what I use for my combination skin and it gets all of the oils out without drying out my skin. However, for individuals with excessively dry skin, I would recommend a different cleanser. 
Mild cream cleanser- dehydrated, sensitive skin This is a great choice for individuals with dry and sensitive skin. It removes debris without unnecessarily stripping the skin.
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Why you should get a mani/pedi

Manicure and Pedicure can be very rewarding in several ways:

  1. Keeping nails clean underneath free edge, maintaining hangnails and clipped to a moderate length will help reduce pathogens and prevent infection.
  2. Use of products, lotions, cream and oils helps with dryness and can be anti-aging…cannot afford cuticle oil try olive oil or coconut oil.
  3. Nail technician will have the knowledge of identifying diseases and disorders, therefore, being able to inform and refer client to physician if necessary.
  4. Massage gets the blood to circulate which helps cells to rejuvenate as well as release tension.
  5. Foot massage can be very relaxing helping to reduce stress.
  6. Last but not least applying polishes or for men buffing nails to a shine will make hands look attractive.
  7. Overall a manicure and pedicure shows how well-groomed you are. And for some it helps with self-esteem.
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Over Exfoliation and why you need to stop

Don’t let your skin get red like this monkey!
Over exfoliation is a common skin problem, and is at the other end of the spectrum of the other issues that we discussed this month. Many people are under the impression that if some amount of something is good for you, than more of that something would be even better for you. This is certainly not the case with exfoliation. Over exfoliation can actually cause your skin problems that you may not have even had in the first place.

Here are some signs of over exfoliation: 
Overly sensitive skin 
Dry flaky patches of skin 
How much is too much? The answer to that question is a factor of your age, skin type, and complexion. I personally have very sensitive skin. Once a week exfoliation seems to be the perfect amount. Any more than that and I am a flaky tingly mess! I break out with strange irritation bumps, my cheeks et red from the slightest acidity in products, and my nose gets very flaky and dry. However, individuals with thicker skin may see better results with 2 exfoliations a week. Much of the topics we discuss in skincare deal with an appropriate balance, and this issue is no different. 
Bottom line: See an esthetician for their recommendations on exfoliation amounts/ week and to see if your skin is suited for a particular exfoliation or active ingredient. I personally do well with a mild enzyme exfoliation as it does not dry or irritate my sensitive skin on my cheeks! To read more, visit this website.
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Increasing Moisture on the skin

Moisture Here are some tips you can practice to increase your skin’s moisture content in the summer -Moisturize after going in the pool- Chlorine and salt water can dry out your skin, be sure to replenish your skin’s natural barrier and hydration after long periods in water. -Exfoliate- exfoliating your skin to help slough off dead skin cells, moisturizing dead skin cells does not bring them back to life. Get rid of them while you still can with our Vita C Microexfoliant. -Drink a bottle of water everyday- drink water everyday to help replenish your skin’s water content. Your skin is an organ and requires many of the nutrients you ingest. Taking water into the body is a beneficial way to replenish with out and skincare products. -Cleanse your face- cleansing your face can keep it clear of debris and minimize the over production of oil, just be sure to moisturize after this step.

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De-stress with these tips

So many of my friends and family cite Autumn as their favorite season. And frankly, what’s not to love? Pumpkin spice, well, EVERYTHING, turning leaves, jack-o-lanterns, comfort food. However, with all of the excitement centered around fall, it is often a busy time. Kids and many adults are in school, work is back in action after the summer haziness, and everyone is keeping their noses to the grindstone. Stress is not only hard on your body, but on your skin as well. Here are some helpful ways to combat stress via your skincare routine.
-Use Vitamin C: Vitamin C helps combat free radicals, which contribute aging. Exposure to chronic stress can cause an excess of free radicals
-Make time for yourself: Carve out some time at least every week to reward yourself. A great way to serve both yourself and your skin is to get a facial or other relaxing skin treatment.
-Stick to a routine: One theory of stress is that it occurs when we feel our demands exceed our capability, in other words, we have more on our plate than we can handle. Defining and practicing a skincare routine can help save time and ensure you don’t neglect your skin Keep these tips in mind during times of excessive stress.

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Hmm which microderm to choose?

There are three types of microderms that are most commonly used: Crystal, Diamond, and Hydro. They each have their strengths and weaknesses, and are designed to suit different skin types.

Crystal microderm is the most common type of microderm. This type has been utilized for more than 20 years. It uses aluminum oxide or sodium bicarbonate crystals to remove the outer layer of skin, and suction to remove the debris and dead skin. This option is the most effective at exfoliation. The crystals move around perfectly on your skin, and can maneuver around skin irregularities. Best for skin that requires intense exfoliation, but not overly sensitive to irritation.
Diamond tip
The next most common form is Diamond tip. It utilizes a hard diamond point to ablate dead skin. While not the most effective at removing dead skin and debris, it is perfect for those who have sensitive skin. 
A hydro-microderm is the best option for those who want need some hydration as well as exfoliation. This is the perfect microderm for winter when skin is dry and prone to irritation. While the least powerful of the three, it allows for simultaneous treatment of dry and dead skin. 
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